Hair Curling Techniques for Different Curl Styles

The way you wrap hair around a curling iron has just as much impact on your final style as the tool you use. With a single curling iron, you can create dramatically different looks simply by changing your technique. From old Hollywood glamour to effortless beach waves, mastering various wrapping methods opens up a world of styling possibilities.

This guide breaks down the most popular curling techniques, explaining exactly how to achieve each look and which scenarios they're best suited for.

Classic Spiral Curls

The classic spiral is the foundation of curling technique. It creates uniform, defined curls that work beautifully for formal events or when you want a polished, put-together look.

How to Create Spiral Curls

1. Take a small section of hair (about 2cm wide)
2. Place the curling iron near the roots, with the barrel pointing downward
3. Wrap the hair around the barrel in a corkscrew pattern, keeping each wrap slightly below the previous one
4. The hair should spiral down the barrel without overlapping
5. Hold for 8-10 seconds, then release

Best for: Weddings, formal events, vintage-inspired looks, adding volume to fine hair

Barrel size: 19-25mm for tight spirals, 25-32mm for looser spirals

Beachy Waves

The effortless, textured look that appears in countless fashion campaigns. Beachy waves look undone and relaxed, as if you've spent the day at the shore. The secret is intentional imperfection.

How to Create Beachy Waves

1. Leave out the last 2-3cm of your ends—this is crucial for the "undone" look
2. Wrap hair around the barrel in a flat, ribbon-like fashion rather than twisting
3. Alternate the direction you curl each section (toward face, away from face)
4. Vary the distance from the roots where you start each curl
5. After cooling, tousle with fingers and add texturising spray

Best for: Casual everyday styling, summer events, music festivals, relaxed occasions

Barrel size: 32-38mm for loose waves, 25-32mm for more defined texture

Old Hollywood Waves

Glamorous, structured S-waves that evoke the golden age of cinema. This technique requires more patience but delivers stunning, head-turning results perfect for special occasions.

How to Create Hollywood Waves

1. Create a deep side part in dry, styled hair
2. Work with large, horizontal sections (about 5cm wide)
3. Curl each section in the same direction, away from the face
4. As you release each curl, pin it immediately while hot
5. Once all sections are pinned and cooled (15-20 minutes), remove pins
6. Gently brush through all curls with a wide-tooth comb or paddle brush
7. Use duckbill clips to set the "waves" where the hair naturally forms S-shapes
8. Spray with hairspray and let set for another 10 minutes
9. Remove clips and smooth with your fingers

Best for: Formal galas, weddings, photoshoots, red carpet events

Barrel size: 32-38mm (larger barrels create more flowing waves)

Bouncy Blowout Curls

Think of the hair in shampoo commercials—full of movement, volume, and life. Blowout curls are about creating body and bounce rather than defined ringlets.

How to Create Blowout Curls

1. Work with medium-sized sections
2. Wrap hair around the barrel starting mid-shaft (not near the roots)
3. Curl all sections away from the face for a lifted, open look
4. Hold for only 5-7 seconds—you want soft bends, not tight curls
5. Once cooled, flip your head upside down and shake
6. Run fingers through to break up curls into voluminous waves

Best for: Work presentations, date nights, everyday glamour, TV appearances

Barrel size: 32-38mm for volume without obvious curls

Ribbon Curls (Flat Wrap)

Instead of twisting hair around the barrel, ribbon curls involve wrapping hair flat, like a ribbon around a gift. This creates looser, S-shaped bends rather than corkscrew spirals.

How to Create Ribbon Curls

1. Take a section of hair and hold it straight out
2. Place the curling iron behind the hair mid-shaft
3. Wrap the hair around the barrel keeping it flat and smooth, not twisted
4. Each wrap should sit next to the previous one, not overlapping
5. Hold for 8-10 seconds and release

Best for: Adding movement to straight styles, subtle waves, professional settings

Barrel size: Any size works, but 25-32mm is most versatile

Face-Framing Curls

A technique specifically for the pieces of hair that frame your face. These curls draw attention to your features and can be styled while the rest of your hair stays straight or receives minimal styling.

How to Create Face-Framing Curls

1. Section out the front pieces on each side (about 3cm wide)
2. Always curl these sections away from your face
3. Start the curl lower than usual—about ear level—for a modern look
4. Curl the sections behind them toward the face for contrast
5. Allow these pieces to fall naturally, adjusting with fingers

Best for: Quick styling when you're short on time, adding polish to any hairstyle

Barrel size: Match the rest of your style, or go one size smaller for definition

Alternating Direction Technique

One of the most important techniques for modern, natural-looking curls. By alternating the direction you curl each section, you prevent all the curls from merging into one solid wave.

How to Execute

1. Divide your hair into vertical sections
2. Curl the first section away from your face
3. Curl the next section toward your face
4. Continue alternating throughout
5. For the most natural look, be somewhat random—you don't need to strictly alternate every single section

This technique works with any of the curl styles above and is especially effective for beachy waves and everyday styles.

Matching Technique to Tool

Different curling tools lend themselves to different techniques:

• Curling iron with clamp: Best for classic spirals, Hollywood waves, and blowout curls where precision is needed
• Curling wand: Ideal for beachy waves and ribbon curls where you want natural, undone texture
• Automatic curler: Great for beginners wanting consistent spiral curls without technique concerns
• Tapered wand: Perfect for creating varied curl sizes in one style—tighter at ends, looser at roots

Experimenting with Confidence

The beauty of curling techniques is that they're endlessly adaptable. Once you understand the basic principles—how direction affects the fall of curls, how wrap style changes texture, how hold time impacts tightness—you can start creating your own hybrid techniques.

Start by mastering one technique completely before moving to the next. Try each style on a day when you don't need to look perfect, giving yourself permission to experiment and make mistakes. With practice, switching between techniques will become second nature, and you'll have a full repertoire of styles at your fingertips.